Merzouga vs Chegaga: Which Sahara Desert Should You Choose?

By Sabir, Morocco Extra Tours. I have guided and driven travellers through southern Morocco since 2004.

Quick answer: If you have only 3 or 4 days, go to Merzouga: the highest dunes in Morocco, easy access and comfortable camps. If you have 5 or 6 days and want a wild, empty desert, go to Erg Chegaga near M'Hamid El Ghizlane. Both are beautiful. They are simply two very different experiences.

Morocco has two great dune seas: Erg Chebbi near Merzouga in the east, and the dunes around M'Hamid El Ghizlane in the south, including Erg Lihoudi and Erg Chegaga. After many years of driving guests to both, here is my honest comparison.

Merzouga vs Chegaga at a glance

Dunes: Merzouga has the highest dunes in Morocco. Chegaga's dunes are lower overall, but the sand stretches to the horizon.
Size: Merzouga is a compact dune field. Chegaga is huge and meets the Algerian desert.
Atmosphere: Merzouga is touristic, with visitors from every country. Chegaga is wild, quiet and empty.
Access: Merzouga is easy to reach. Chegaga is harder; the last part is by 4x4 on open track.
Hotels and restaurants: many in Merzouga, few around Chegaga.
Time from Marrakech: 3 days is enough for Merzouga. Chegaga is possible in 3 days, but 5 to 6 days is far more comfortable.
Best for: Merzouga suits first-time visitors, short trips and families. Chegaga suits travellers who want a unique, remote desert.

Merzouga and Erg Chebbi: the classic Sahara

Merzouga sits at the edge of Erg Chebbi, where you find the highest dunes in Morocco. It is the most popular desert destination in the country, and for good reasons: hotels, restaurants and camps are everywhere, and the marketing around it is strong. You will meet travellers from all over the world.

The dune field itself is not very wide, but the dunes are tall and spectacular. The first time my guests see them, they are stunned, above all when camels appear next to the dunes. That is the moment everyone pulls out their camera.

Choose Merzouga if:

you have 3 or 4 days for the desert;
it is your first trip to Morocco;
you travel with children or want maximum comfort;
you want the big, iconic dunes from the photos.

Chegaga and M'Hamid: the wild Sahara

Camel ride through the dunes near M'Hamid El Ghizlane

The desert around M'Hamid El Ghizlane is a different world. The dunes are generally lower than in Merzouga, but the sand stretches to the horizon like an ocean. This desert meets the Algerian desert, which is part of the great Sahara.

There are two main areas:

Erg Lihoudi, the closest dunes to M'Hamid, good for a shorter stay (our 2-Day Marrakech to M'Hamid Desert Tour is the quickest way to taste this desert);
Erg Chegaga, deeper in the desert, where you find the higher dunes of Erg Chegaga, Erg El Ghoul and Erg Smar.

When you enter Chegaga, you feel you are in the middle of a real, natural, wild desert. With some luck you can see ostriches and gazelles. On the way you pass landmarks like Jebel Bani, the "round mountains" and a natural spring. There are no villages at the edge of the dunes, only sand, wind and sky.

Choose Chegaga if:

you have 5 or 6 days, or you accept a fast 3-day trip;
you have seen popular places before and want something authentic;
silence and empty landscapes matter more to you than comfort.

Short on time but set on Chegaga? Our 3-Day Marrakech to Chegaga Desert Tour via Ait Ben Haddou and the Draa Valley takes you there.

What about Zagora?

Palm groves of the Draa Valley on the road to Zagora

Many travellers search for "Merzouga or Zagora". Zagora is a town on the road to M'Hamid, not a dune sea. If you want real dunes on that side of Morocco, continue to Erg Lihoudi or Erg Chegaga.

So, which one should you choose?

My advice to every guest is simple:

Short on time? Merzouga. You get the biggest dunes with the least driving.
Want a unique desert experience? M'Hamid El Ghizlane, with Erg Lihoudi for a shorter stay or Erg Chegaga to go deep into the desert.

Desert camps: luxury or standard?

Sunrise over a desert camp in the Moroccan Sahara

In both Merzouga and Chegaga, the camp you get depends on your budget.

Luxury camp: a spacious tent with air conditioning, a private toilet and shower inside the tent, and excellent food. The price is higher.
Standard camp: a simple tent without air conditioning, a shared toilet and shower outside the tent, and average food. The price is affordable.

What disappoints travellers most: paying for a luxury camp and getting poor service, asking for vegetarian food and being served meat, being served the food they are allergic to, or finding a camp that looks nothing like the photos. A good local operator checks all of this before you arrive.

A story from the road: lost in a sandstorm in Chegaga

Driver Sabir checking his 4x4 on a desert track near M'Hamid

In June 2012 I was in Erg Chegaga with Italian guests. We had to drive back to Marrakech via Foum Zguid, Taznakht and Ouarzazate. In the morning a sandstorm started, and I could not see the track anymore. I kept stepping out of the car to find the tyre marks of other vehicles and follow them.

For four hours I struggled through Chegaga until I reached a place called Iriqui, where six tracks split, with no phone signal at all. I took the middle track. After a while a mountain shaped like a tagine appeared on my right, and the storm began to calm. I remembered what a friend from the desert once told me: "There is a big round mountain and a small round mountain. Drive between them. If you pass on the side, you can end up in Algeria or in Tata." I drove between them, and on the next rise the phone signal of Foum Zguid appeared. We were back on the road to Taznakht.

This is why Chegaga is not a place to drive on your own. The desert is beautiful, but it does not forgive mistakes.

5 mistakes to avoid on a desert trip

Driving the deep desert without an experienced local driver. In a sandstorm, the tracks disappear. Never leave the vehicle, and always carry water and food.
Losing time on the road. You need to arrive in time for sunset. Long lunches can make you miss it.
Riding a camel in shorts. Wear long trousers; the constant rubbing hurts your legs.
Forgetting warm clothes. Desert mornings and nights are cold, even after a hot day.
Riding the camel both ways. It is too tiring. Most guests ride the camel one way and take a 4x4 the other way.

FAQ

Which is better, Merzouga or Chegaga?

Neither is better; they are different. Merzouga has the highest dunes and the easiest access. Chegaga is wilder, bigger and quieter, but it needs more time.

How many days do I need for Chegaga from Marrakech?

It is possible in 3 days, like our 3-Day Chegaga Desert Tour, but the days are long. 5 to 6 days lets you enjoy it without rushing.

Can I see Merzouga in 3 days from Marrakech?

Yes. A 3-day trip is the minimum and it works, but you will feel the distances. 4 or 5 days is more comfortable.

Is Merzouga too touristic?

It is the most visited desert in Morocco, so you will meet other travellers. If you want silence and empty dunes, Chegaga is the better choice.

How much should I tip in the desert camp?

Around 50 to 100 MAD for the camel driver and the same for the 4x4 driver. For the camp staff, use the tip box; they share it at the end of the month.

Plan your desert trip with a local

Merzouga or Chegaga, the right choice depends on your time and the experience you want. Tell us your dates and how many days you have, and we will plan a private desert trip that fits you.

Planning the whole journey? Read our complete guide to a desert trip from Marrakech.